Umami - the Fact & the Fiction

“Those who pay careful attention to their taste buds will discover in the complex flavour of asparagus, tomatoes, cheese and meat, a common and yet absolutely singular taste which cannot be called sweet, or sour, or salty, or bitter...”

Heston raves on about it. Some of Nobu's best dishes feature it. Food writer Laura Santtini developed the purée which Waitrose sell for it (£2.99 for a 70g tube). So what exactly is Umami?

There are plenty of myths surrounding it, but here are a few basic facts:

• It was first discovered by Japanese scientist, Dr. Kikunae Ikeda, early last century, following research into the flavour profile of kelp (kombu)
• He discovered that glutamate (or glumatic acid) was the main active ingredient in kombu, and coined the term ‘umami’ to describe its taste
• Taking its name from the Japanese for ‘savouriness’, umami is a pleasant savoury taste imparted by glutamate, a type of amino acid, and ribonucleotides, including inosinate and guanylate, which occur naturally in many foods including meat, fish, vegetables and dairy products.

From Dr. Ikeda's initial discovery research into umami soon snowballed. Other ingredients were also found that delivered the umami taste – notably inosinate (found in bonito flakes), and guanylate (present in shiitake mushroom stock).

But it wasn't until the 1980's that Western scientists formally recognised umami's status as ‘the fifth taste’ – sitting alongside the other taste sensations of sweet, bitter, salty and sour. But why did it take so long to discover? And how do we know it's not just another foodie fad?

Well, for a start, it's been around for thousands of years (the Ancient Romans used fermented fish sauces as seasonings). It's always been there – it just hasn't been singled out, mainly because it it isn't as immediate a flavour as its siblings. Due to its subtlety it blends well with other tastes to expand and round out flavours – so most people don't recognise umami when they encounter it. But you'll find it in everything from Soy Sauce and Miso through to Tomato Ketchup and Cheese.

Eastern and Western cuisine differs in its use of umami-rich ingredients,* but some of the best modern dishes combine ingredients for a supreme umami hit. One notable example is a Nobu signature dish, Baby Spinach with Grilled Shrimp and Dried Red Miso – which combines the earthiness of spinach, dried miso and grated parmesan with tiger prawns and yuzo juice for a supreme umami punch cut through with the sweet prawns and a citrus bite.

But umami also shines through in contemporary cuisine in the simplest form – namely the use of stocks. Whether it's a Japanese ‘dashi’ or a meat bouillon, stocks combine and draw out the umami flavour of the glutamate found in kombu and vegetables and the inosinate found in bonito flakes and meat to intensify the natural umami flavour.

All of which is great, but what does it actually mean to the average chef? And how can they maximise the umami potential of their menu to attract custom and drive profits?

Well, in America there's already a Californian chain called Umami Burger, (http://umamiburger.com/) exploring all aspects of umami in the menu, from starters to desserts and drinks. Meanwhile, mixologists have been experimenting with umami in drinks (Tomato Basil Martini or Black Samurai**, anyone)?

UK caterers can maximise this growing trend by highlighting dishes as ‘rich in umami’ on their menus – it will certainly attract enquiries from curious foodies. Fundamentally you probably won't need to change the structure of your menu. Certain dishes are naturally rich in umami: Gazpacho, Cheese Flans, Pumpkin Soup, Beef Wellington, Miso Broths or a take on Heston's perfect Burger with Mushroom Ketchup, for example.

Ultimately, don't be afraid to experiment. Read up on it, play around in the kitchen, and try maximising the umami hit in certain dishes to see if it can improve your dishes. A little knowledge could go a long way.

Gerard Murphy, Food Development Chef, Kerry

*In Asian cuisine umami is principally found in beans, grain, fermented seafood products, shitake mushrooms, kombu and dried seafood. In Western cuisine, it's found in a different form of meat and dairy products – namely ham, cheese and tomatoes.

**Tomato Basil Martini features gin, peppercorns, agave-lime nectar, hibiscus bitters and ripe cherry tomatoes. Black Samurai offers a shot of umami with a subtle mix of soy sauce and sake.

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